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The Hair Color Wheel: 5 Steps To Your Most Beautiful Hair Color      

 

How To Use The Color Wheel To Formulate Your Perfect Hair Color     

Ever wish you had your own personal stylist standing beside you as you color your hair? The color wheel is the next closest thing. Designed to visually show how primary, secondary and tertiary colors interact with each other, it also shows how warm and cool colors complement or counteract each other. When coloring hair, the hair color wheel is like a road map to formulating your salon beautiful home hair color. 


 
 As with all journeys, you must first know your destination in order to get where you want to go. As you travel along your hair color journey, "underlying pigments" appear as hair is lightened. Notice the underlying pigments associated with the natural hair color levels across the top of the chart above. The hair colors, their associated levels, their underlying pigments and their neutralizing tones are below:

1 & 2  Very Black      
 3 Black Red Ash
 4 Black Brown  Red          Ash    
 5 Very Dark Br  Red         Ash 
6 Dark Brown Red/Orange Ash/Beige
7 Med Brown Orange       Beige
 8 Light Brown         Orange       Beige
 9 Med Blonde Gold        Beige             
10 Light Blonde Light Gold    Beige/Violet
12 Very Light Bl       Yellow           Platinum

 

"Ash" counters red. Red undertones appear as black to very dark brown ( levels 1,2 and 3) hair color is lightened. *** "Ash" is also a descriptive term used in all  shades (browns to blondes) of hair color because it is a familiar hair color associated with  "brass elimination".

"Smokey", "cool" and "beige" are blue based neutralizing hair colors that tone orange undertones. Orange comes forward in medium to light brown hair. As hair is lightened to a medium blonde, golden undertones appear. Gold, which is simply a less intense version of orange tone darker and medium blondes.  

"Platinum" hair color is violet based. As a neutralizing hair color, it is often misused. Violet is a combination of blue and red color. Home-and ocassionaly professional colorists tend to choose violet based colors to counter gold tones in blonde hair. Because of the red pigment in violet based hair color, the gold undertones are enhanced, not neutralized. Violet-platinum counters yellow, not gold

    

 

Warmth Appears As Hair Lightens

  Hair always lightens to warm tones. All too easily, those warm tones turn out to be brassy hair color.  The steps below help to explain how to use the most benefit from the hair color wheel:

      1) Determine the hair color you would like to achieve.
      2) Looking at the underlying pigment chart, find the level of the color that you want to achieve. As an example, level 8 is a dark blonde
      3) Make a note of the above colors' underlying pigment. The underlying pigment for level 8 is yellow/orange. (I know, I know! The chart above shows yellow to be the underlying pigment for dark blonde hair. I humbly disagree.) 
      4) Find the underlying pigment color on the color wheel.   
      5) Beginning at the above determined underlying pigment on the color wheel, trace your finger directly across the color wheel to find its neutralizing tone. 
      6) Contrarily if your goal is to "accent" your underlying pigment, rather than neutralize it, choose a hair color . As an example, strawberry blonde hair color is easily lightened hair 

Use The Color Wheel to Cool Down That Warmth

 
    

Even when you've successfully put together the right formula, there are times when the color wheel doesn't seem to be the color expert you've been led to believe it to be. Why? This is Laurie. Below are several examples of the challenges her hair has experienced:
     1) Sometimes Laurie's hair might have an abundance of a particular undertone-particular to the level she's trying to achieve. Slightly darkening Laurie's hair color would be the perfect solution to balancing the brassiness. (Adding even just a few drops to a capful of a darker color to your previous formula can make a big difference.) Darker than you would like? Add a few highlights to give the illusion of lightness.
     2) Laurie may have lightened her hair more than two shades resulting in stubborn undertones, seemingly unwilling to budge. See above.
     3) When/if Laurie continuously "refreshes" her hair ends with the permanent color formula used on her roots, the porosity of the hair is destroyed, making her hair unable to hold the hair color. Shortly after she's colored her hair, it fades to a dull,  brassy color".
   Laurie first needs to recondition her hair. Neutral Protein Filler will help to even out the porosity issues with Laurie's hair. The next time she colors her hair, the filler should be applied to her ends per the directions. Then each time afterwards, added to her color before refreshing the color.
     Mixing your hair color can fine tune it or "double up" to add impact to the counteracting tones. Following is a formula for Laurie's hair that would avoid this brassy color.  
Mix: 1/2 oz 7.1 Dark Ash Blonde Preference Liquid Creme hair color
 1/2 oz.  7.1B Medium Ash Blonde Preference Liquid Creme hair color
  1 oz. 20 Volume peroxide
Looking at the color wheel (above in my video picture above) level 7 undertone is orange. Straight across from orange on the "wheel" is blue. Blue is the undertone of beige. That's the "b" in this formula and with the ash also in this formula, the counteracting ability of the formula doubles.
   
   Learning to use the color wheel takes a little practice. Always remember the power of strand testing.









  



   1) Determine your natural hair color shade- in hair color lingo, shades are referred  to as ."levels". Reference the chart below. (When in doubt, think darker rather than lighter). 
   1) Determine your natural hair color shade- in hair color lingo, shades are referred  to as ."levels". Reference the chart below. (When in doubt, think darker rather than lighter). 
   1) Determine your natural hair color shade. In hair color lingo, shades are referred  to as "levels". Reference the chart above. (When in doubt, think darker rather than lighter). 

   2) Determine the level of your desired hair color. Learn the level attached to that particular color by referring to this same hair color chart. Not sure how to find your ideal hair color levels? A strand consultation will answer that question for you.
   1) Determine your natural hair color shade. In hair color lingo, shades are referred  to as "levels". Reference the chart above. (When in doubt, think darker rather than lighter). 

   2) Determine the level of your desired hair color. Learn the level attached to that particular color by referring to this same hair color chart. Not sure how to find your ideal hair color levels? A strand consultation will answer that question for you.
   1) Determine your natural hair color shade. In hair color lingo, shades are referred  to as "levels". Reference the chart above. (When in doubt, think darker rather than lighter). 

   2) Determine the level of your desired hair color. Learn the level attached to that particular color by referring to this same hair color chart. Not sure how to find your ideal hair color levels? A strand consultation will answer that question for you.
   1) Determine your natural hair color shade. In hair color lingo, shades are referred  to as "levels". Reference the chart above. (When in doubt, think darker rather than lighter). 

   2) Determine the level of your desired hair color. Learn the level attached to that particular color by referring to this same hair color chart. Not sure how to find your ideal hair color levels? A strand consultation will answer that question for you.
Black (1&2)                         Red
Very Dark Brown (3&4)    Red Orange
Dark Brown (5)
Medium Brown (6)
Light Brown (7)
Dark Blonde (8)
Medium Blonde (9)
Light Blonde (10)    
Black (1&2)                         Red
Very Dark Brown (3&4)    Red Orange
Dark Brown (5)
Medium Brown (6)
Light Brown (7)
Dark Blonde (8)
Medium Blonde (9)
Light Blonde (10)    
Black (1&2)                         Red
Very Dark Brown (3&4)    Red Orange
Dark Brown (5)
Medium Brown (6)
Light Brown (7)
Dark Blonde (8)
Medium Blonde (9)
Light Blonde (10)    


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